Matteo Menardi Ménego portrait Matteo Menardi Ménego

Climbed Milestones

22 years of dedication · 9a redpoint · 8b onsight · 562+ ascents 8a and above

The Story 📖

Born and grew up in the Dolomites, I began climbing at the age of five in the mountains surrounding Cortina d'Ampezzo, where my father took me regularly.

After early success in youth competitions and a place on the Italian Youth National Team (active on the international circuit until 2013), I focused increasingly on outdoor sport climbing. The grades came steadily: first 7c at ten, first 8a at twelve, first 8b/8b+ at thirteen, first 8c at fifteen.

On the 18th of March 2015, at the age of sixteen, I completed the first repeat of 9g at Gemona del Friuli — the route freed by Adam Ondra in 2013 and graded by him a “difficult 9a”. With that ascent I became on that day the youngest Italian ever to climb 9a.

Between 2016 and 2022, eight more 9a ascents followed across Italy, Slovenia and the Cortina area, culminating in the first ascent of Zeitläufer 9a at Landro in October 2022 — still unrepeated.

Today I continue to push my limits by setting myself ambitious goals — within, above and beyond sport climbing. Climbing has always taken and given a lot at the same time. My last setback came from a bike fall earlier this year; while I am not yet 100% recovered, I am now planning and building a new chapter — always aiming high from the Alps, where my heartbeat and the wind set on the same frequency.

The Nine 9a Ascents 🏔️

DateRouteGrade
7 Oct 2022Zeitläufer — first ascent, unrepeated
Landro, Dolomites
9a
30 Oct 2021Puro Dreaming
Massone, Arco
9a
1 Nov 2019Vodni Svet (Waterworld)
Osp / Mišja Peč, Slovenia
9a
17 Jul 2019Underground
Massone, Arco
9a
30 Mar 2019Thunder Ribes
Massone, Arco
9a
28 Mar 2018Martin Krpan
Mišja Peč, Slovenia
9a
10 Dec 2016Halupca 1979
Osp / Mišja Peč, Slovenia
9a
6 Oct 2016Welcome to the Club
Campo, Cortina d'Ampezzo
9a
18 Mar 20159g — first Italian repeat
Gemona del Friuli, Italy
9a

Career Highlights 🏆

2015

First Italian 9a at 16

First repeat of “9g” at Gemona del Friuli — Adam Ondra's 9a, freed in 2013.

2022

Zeitläufer 9a — First Ascent

First ascent at Landro Pangea in the Dolomites. Still unrepeated.

2013 — 2026

562+ ascents 8a and above

Including 132 routes 8b+ and harder, 129 onsights between 8a and 8b, and 8 flashes.

2012 — 2023

Competition career

Italian Youth National Team, European Youth Cup, multiple podiums and top-10 finishes.

Best Onsights & Flashes ⚡️

Onsights at 8b

  • I Sessanta Ruggenti — Somplago · 2014
  • La Voie Lactée — La Balme de Yenne, France · 2015
  • Bozzet on the Road — Capanna Bill · 2015
  • Helikopter v Omaki — Osp, Slovenia · 2016
  • Priez pour Nous L2 — Tennessee · 2016
  • Ha Chiamato Cubista — Cinque Torri · 2018
  • Torre Pendente — Red Up · 2023

Flashes 8a / 8a+

  • Il Mio Nome è Nessuno 8a+ — Cineplex · 2023
  • Manera Marza 8a+ — Caiada · 2017
  • Out of Control 8a — New Ceredo · 2023
  • La Felicità 8a — New Ceredo · 2021
  • Uživancija 8a — Mišja Peč · 2018
  • Maciste 8a — Ceredo · 2017

Plus 40 onsights at 8a+ and 82 at 8a.

Long-Time Partners 🦾

Climbing supported, since the beginning, by two of the most respected Italian outdoor brands.

Karpos — since 2016  ·  SCARPA — since 2017

Scarpa   Karpos